More rambling about that project
Apr. 18th, 2012 09:14 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chocolatepotDid more PastPerfect data entry (it's more than data entry, though - I synthesize a lot of information on some of the dresses that have been examined and had stuff written in their folders, and some of them have hardly any information but pictures so I write my own description based on them) today and noted down when there was a garment I ~plan to do~ someday. Also went back and noted the 18th c. ones I did the other day, although I think I may have missed a few.
18th century
X1940.467.14: Anglaise with retroussee loops. En fourreau, no petti. Lustring
1961.26.1a-b: Anglaise and petti, remade 1780s
1986.13.14 a-b: Anglaise and petticoat, mulberry colored. Loops for retroussee. Altered to standard 1780s.
None of these three thrill me. The first one has a cute fabric, but afaict none of them are special. 1986.13.14a-b might be fairly interesting as I think the fabric's earlier, but I haven't looked at it up close.
1915.1a, b: The sacque I already patterned. Not special, but seems a shame to let it go to waste.
1959.111.1: Thesis-type dress
Obviously worthwhile as it's a GREAT example of the transition with shaped. fitted sleeves and a pleated bodice combined with lots of drapery and drawstrings.
19th century
U1973.83: evening dress ca. 1807, odd fastening
According to Valerie Steele, I think (everyone who comes in to look at the dresses writes comments and signs them), the crossover - maybe, the description was confusing - fastening on the left side is only seen in a few other dresses out there, which definitely means a pattern would be good.
1972.95.5: ca. 1820 cotton day dress
Well, the fabric is bizarrely modern, with moons and stars like on kid curtains. The dress itself doesn't thrill me, but JA only has a pelisse from then and NW has a pelisse and an evening dress.
1938.3.1: ca. 1820 evening dress
Simple body, but it has sleeves I haven't seen patterned anywhere.
X1940.495.61: 1837-1842 day dress
This would be one example of transitional sleeves - they're pleated in quite a lot - and there are these pleated swags from the shoulders to the waist CF point.
1948.31.86: 1840s open dress
It's in this interesting leaf-patterned green, ivory, and brown silk, and it's full on 18thc. revival with the open front that may even have robings, IIRC.
1976.50a-b: fan-front day dress, ca. 1845
The type is represented in NW but not JA. Also, I love these.
1962.38.1, 2: wedding dress and bridesmaid's dress, 1846
The description said the bridesmaid's dress was already in pieces, so it would be much easier to pattern.
U1973.79: wrapper, 1850-1853
Wrappers are not commonly patterned. I don't remember what this one looks like, but I think it's similar to another wrapper I could also do.
1972.95.2a-c: ca. 1867 Pingat pink evening dress
This one's one of the stars of the collection - great condition, very plain in a "I'm a srs couturier and prefer to make perfect gowns than fussy ones" way. It's kind of Schiaparelli pink.
1972.95.8: Worth walking dress
1972.95.9: Worth & Bobergh dress
1972.95.10: ditto
COME ON, surely no explanations needed. The latter two especially as they're earlier.
1972.95.83a-e: Mme Virfolet dinner/evening dress, ca. 1867
I already patterned this one. It's amazing. I long for the day somebody makes it and wears it to something, seriously - the only pictures of it dressed are on a dreadful 1970s mannequin and they didn't put a hoop skirt underneath. The skirt has enough body to stand out, but not as much as it needed. Blue satin bodice, skirt of white taffeta covered with ruched white tulle, blue satin overskirt, everything trimmed with satin bias strips.
1975.29: reception dress, ca. 1881
Curiously, it also sounds kind of like a tea gown - somehow there are Watteau pleats and a fitted bodice?
Don't remember the descriptions:
1972.95.3: ca. 1897 LP Hollander evening gown
1972.95.6: ca. 1877 walking dress
20th Century
1968.1a-c: ca. 1901 evening/day dress
I'm not sure what most of the dress looks like (sometimes that happens with really detailed descriptions of how the fabric is draped ... you end up with a muddled picture) but it has a detachable yoke/collar to let the dress transition, rather than separate bodices, which is interesting.
U1973.61: afternoon dress w. chiné - 1905
Was going to be in the show originally. I'm kind of going off patterning it now - it's eccentric in the chiné panel, but the cut is pretty standard IIRC.
U1973.62: walking ensemble - 1910
U1973.97: afternoon dress, 1912, lace inserts, sleeves cut in one with bodice
1976.22.3: evening dress, ca. 1911
The 1910s are the best.
1977.40.1: lingerie dress, ca. 1911
It's got these sahses hanging down from the shoulders, apparently, and is supposed to be very lacey.
U1973.88: day dress, Germaine Lecomte, pleated all over, 1927
There are two similar ones - very reminiscent (very reminiscent, now that I look at the pattern) of 31 in JA PoF2. That one's also probably by Germaine Lecomte. Um. Maybe it's not a great candidate for the project.
Don't really remember the descriptions:
U1973.64: evening coat - 1895
U1973.68: wedding dress - 1894
U1973.73: visiting ensemble - 1895 - Raudnitz of Paris
U1973.90: day dress, chiffon velvet, 1927
From outside AIHA, I have:
ca. 1750 mustard/gold damask mantua (number in a picture I took but not my notebook for some reason): not amazingly different from anything, really, but it does have a weird construction where the lining has four pieces - two fronts and two backs - but the silk has fronts, backs, and sides.
A dress with bodices from ca. 1800, ca. 1810, and ca. 1820, because that's pretty cool, right?
What I originally labeled as a cotton apron but now think might be a petticoat ca. 1800? There's another that I did identify as a petticoat.
The trouble with anglaises is that their variation tends to be entirely in size, but I do have a drawing of one from Cherry Hill (HCHC 3719) with en fourreau pleats pointing to CB, which is shown in 17th and 18th Century Fashion in Detail, but isn't patterned anywhere I can tell. Also from Cherry Hill, I have listed on this printout "pink lustring silk caraco, 1790-1795. Dress remade to a caraco by removing skirt and adding tight fitting sleeves. ... pinked ruffle on peplum?" that sounds pretty interesting.
If I were going to include underclothes, there are the stays mine are based on, and some very simple 1800-1810 ones possibly by the same person.
18th century
X1940.467.14: Anglaise with retroussee loops. En fourreau, no petti. Lustring
1961.26.1a-b: Anglaise and petti, remade 1780s
1986.13.14 a-b: Anglaise and petticoat, mulberry colored. Loops for retroussee. Altered to standard 1780s.
None of these three thrill me. The first one has a cute fabric, but afaict none of them are special. 1986.13.14a-b might be fairly interesting as I think the fabric's earlier, but I haven't looked at it up close.
1915.1a, b: The sacque I already patterned. Not special, but seems a shame to let it go to waste.
1959.111.1: Thesis-type dress
Obviously worthwhile as it's a GREAT example of the transition with shaped. fitted sleeves and a pleated bodice combined with lots of drapery and drawstrings.
19th century
U1973.83: evening dress ca. 1807, odd fastening
According to Valerie Steele, I think (everyone who comes in to look at the dresses writes comments and signs them), the crossover - maybe, the description was confusing - fastening on the left side is only seen in a few other dresses out there, which definitely means a pattern would be good.
1972.95.5: ca. 1820 cotton day dress
Well, the fabric is bizarrely modern, with moons and stars like on kid curtains. The dress itself doesn't thrill me, but JA only has a pelisse from then and NW has a pelisse and an evening dress.
1938.3.1: ca. 1820 evening dress
Simple body, but it has sleeves I haven't seen patterned anywhere.
X1940.495.61: 1837-1842 day dress
This would be one example of transitional sleeves - they're pleated in quite a lot - and there are these pleated swags from the shoulders to the waist CF point.
1948.31.86: 1840s open dress
It's in this interesting leaf-patterned green, ivory, and brown silk, and it's full on 18thc. revival with the open front that may even have robings, IIRC.
1976.50a-b: fan-front day dress, ca. 1845
The type is represented in NW but not JA. Also, I love these.
1962.38.1, 2: wedding dress and bridesmaid's dress, 1846
The description said the bridesmaid's dress was already in pieces, so it would be much easier to pattern.
U1973.79: wrapper, 1850-1853
Wrappers are not commonly patterned. I don't remember what this one looks like, but I think it's similar to another wrapper I could also do.
1972.95.2a-c: ca. 1867 Pingat pink evening dress
This one's one of the stars of the collection - great condition, very plain in a "I'm a srs couturier and prefer to make perfect gowns than fussy ones" way. It's kind of Schiaparelli pink.
1972.95.8: Worth walking dress
1972.95.9: Worth & Bobergh dress
1972.95.10: ditto
COME ON, surely no explanations needed. The latter two especially as they're earlier.
1972.95.83a-e: Mme Virfolet dinner/evening dress, ca. 1867
I already patterned this one. It's amazing. I long for the day somebody makes it and wears it to something, seriously - the only pictures of it dressed are on a dreadful 1970s mannequin and they didn't put a hoop skirt underneath. The skirt has enough body to stand out, but not as much as it needed. Blue satin bodice, skirt of white taffeta covered with ruched white tulle, blue satin overskirt, everything trimmed with satin bias strips.
1975.29: reception dress, ca. 1881
Curiously, it also sounds kind of like a tea gown - somehow there are Watteau pleats and a fitted bodice?
Don't remember the descriptions:
1972.95.3: ca. 1897 LP Hollander evening gown
1972.95.6: ca. 1877 walking dress
20th Century
1968.1a-c: ca. 1901 evening/day dress
I'm not sure what most of the dress looks like (sometimes that happens with really detailed descriptions of how the fabric is draped ... you end up with a muddled picture) but it has a detachable yoke/collar to let the dress transition, rather than separate bodices, which is interesting.
U1973.61: afternoon dress w. chiné - 1905
Was going to be in the show originally. I'm kind of going off patterning it now - it's eccentric in the chiné panel, but the cut is pretty standard IIRC.
U1973.62: walking ensemble - 1910
U1973.97: afternoon dress, 1912, lace inserts, sleeves cut in one with bodice
1976.22.3: evening dress, ca. 1911
The 1910s are the best.
1977.40.1: lingerie dress, ca. 1911
It's got these sahses hanging down from the shoulders, apparently, and is supposed to be very lacey.
U1973.88: day dress, Germaine Lecomte, pleated all over, 1927
There are two similar ones - very reminiscent (very reminiscent, now that I look at the pattern) of 31 in JA PoF2. That one's also probably by Germaine Lecomte. Um. Maybe it's not a great candidate for the project.
Don't really remember the descriptions:
U1973.64: evening coat - 1895
U1973.68: wedding dress - 1894
U1973.73: visiting ensemble - 1895 - Raudnitz of Paris
U1973.90: day dress, chiffon velvet, 1927
From outside AIHA, I have:
ca. 1750 mustard/gold damask mantua (number in a picture I took but not my notebook for some reason): not amazingly different from anything, really, but it does have a weird construction where the lining has four pieces - two fronts and two backs - but the silk has fronts, backs, and sides.
A dress with bodices from ca. 1800, ca. 1810, and ca. 1820, because that's pretty cool, right?
What I originally labeled as a cotton apron but now think might be a petticoat ca. 1800? There's another that I did identify as a petticoat.
The trouble with anglaises is that their variation tends to be entirely in size, but I do have a drawing of one from Cherry Hill (HCHC 3719) with en fourreau pleats pointing to CB, which is shown in 17th and 18th Century Fashion in Detail, but isn't patterned anywhere I can tell. Also from Cherry Hill, I have listed on this printout "pink lustring silk caraco, 1790-1795. Dress remade to a caraco by removing skirt and adding tight fitting sleeves. ... pinked ruffle on peplum?" that sounds pretty interesting.
If I were going to include underclothes, there are the stays mine are based on, and some very simple 1800-1810 ones possibly by the same person.
