On Fiction

Dec. 13th, 2018 04:50 pm
chocolatepot: Gen, from Queen of Attolia, on a boat (On a boat)
This season of Crazy Ex-Girlfriend is just ... not working for me? I think the problem is that everyone has become way too well-adjusted - what made this show fun over the first three seasons is that just about every character was some level of mess, and Rebecca of course made terrible decisions that drove the plot. The songs were incisive and satirical, and they're still kind of satirical but definitely don't feel like they're poking as hard. I want to see everyone end up happy and well-adjusted, but like I want them to get there in the last few episodes, not just a couple of episodes into the last season.

Also, New Greg. New Greg was a BAD idea. Combining his self-improvement (which is again something one wants to see so the character can be happy, but also removes the dark, self-loathing edge that made him interesting) with a super bland-looking/sounding actor is just ... they shouldn't have brought him back! I wanted them to be together when he left in S2, but I've emotionally moved on, so just let this unmanned ship float out into the Arctic ice, okay? Nathaniel is the man now.

Rich People Problems )

The Cruel Prince )

----

I meant to write a whole bunch of Yuletide treats (since I missed the signup window), and of course I have failed. :( I have one started but I will likely not get to finish it in time. Maybe tomorrow I can really pull out all the stops and get it done? It's a really cool prompt ... at least maybe I can do it as a Madness short.

"People are going to complain about Joyce thoughtlessly!!! writing on Walky's shirt," I thought, and sure enough.

Some more answers:
When did American women begin to wear stockings and when did they switch to tights. Is there any evidence as to why?
What's the difference between an heir apparent and heir presumptive?
A bit on Jewish communities in the Catskills to round out the answers we got to a question about rich people summering
A stereotypical item of medieval women's clothing is a very tall conical hat with a wisp of gauzy cloth attached to the top. How long was this actually fashionable for?
In Lady And The Tramp, there is a line from Lady's neighbors that boils down to 'one of us has to marry her to preserve her honor' after she's been hanging around Tramp too long. Was this mindset ever widespread in the U.S. (the movie's set in 1911)?
When Isabella and Ferdinand joined the houses of Castile and Aragon, they ruled as practically equals. Was it unusual for a queen to wield such political power and influence in 15th Century Europe; and what did contemporaries write about the extent of Isabella’s power and influence over Spain?

It's been a busy week.
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
I often check out the comments on Dumbing of Age and I don't know why, because it's like everyone has forgotten that this is a comic. That the dialogue, the plot arcs of individual strips, etc. are often driven by the need to be funny, and that people being kind of mean or unfair is actually often funny.

Tried on my Unique Vintage order. Two things seem to work well - the bright red Delores dress needs a pressing and maybe the neckline basted together a bit (the split at the center is extremely low on me, I have a high bust), and the Tahiti dress straps button in the back to adjust, and need another buttonhole so I can shorten them (again, high bust). Unfortunately, the Mona and Highlander dresses are both too long-waisted and bother me visually, with the tartan bars going all over the place, never in line, and the curved side-front seams hitting me right at the bust point. (I do not recommend to others.) The Mona is also a weirdly stiff fabric, but the Highlander is a nice flannel and tbh I like the bow, so I regret that that one didn't work out. Guess I'll return them tomorrow. (Still waiting on the pants, which are not yet shipped.)

I spent most of today watching the new season of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, which spurred me to take on this dress I started last winter from a Haslam pattern - did the darts and then the shoulder seams (and then redid the seams because I had the back flipped around) by hand. Going to try to get the bulk of it done tomorrow, leaving the finishing for during the week!
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
As I'm making new friends from the friending meme, and maybe some from Tumblr(?), I thought I'd make some kind of introductory post to Me.

I'm a thirty-something, bisexual*, cis woman, long-term single, unfortunately with no pets. I work in a small museum as, effectively, the curator ([instagram.com profile] stlawrencecoha), and am a moderator and frequentish poster on the subreddit AskHistorians.

*I've been intending to come out to you guys here for a while now

I'm a fashion historian by training and have spent a lot of time doing that on my own, through sewing and blogging and such. (Tired of trying to do it on Tumblr, where unless you work very hard to build up a sizable following, nobody listens to you, and Facebook, where it is all arguing over what is or isn't plausibly accurate in reenactment costume or just looking at dresses.) I also have a broader interest in social history, particularly relating to women, from commoners to queens. (Literally, I have bookmarks in Unexpected Heirs in Early Modern Europe: Potential Kings and Queens and Women in the Medieval English Countryside: Gender and Household in Brigstock before the Plague right now.) My personal style is "1950s", so I normally have at least one sewing project going on at a time that's either from a '50s pattern or is proper historical dress.

I have a loooong history in Harry Potter fandom, first as a dumb kid and then as a dumb college student, and while I went through a long period of inactivity due to the post-books lull in the old-school group, I've been dipping my toes back in. I'm not active-active in any fandoms, but I enjoy consuming and occasionally writing meta about all kinds of fictional properties, old and new! Right now I'm watching and loving Deep Space 9, but I'm also into the Queen's Thief series, The Goblin Emperor, Diana Wynne Jones (partic. HMC), L.M. Montgomery, Jonathan Strange & Mr Norrell, Jane Austen, Jasper Fforde's Shades of Grey (GIVE US MORE), random 18th and 19th century novels I find on Google Books or in book sales, whichever period miniseries the BBC or ITV give us ... Ficwriting tends to only happen in fest contexts because I need a deadline to force myself to finish anything (speaking of which, didn't I plan to write a few Yuletide treats?), but I have a habit of musing meta-ly about anything I happen to be consuming, usually when I'm about halfway through it.
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
So, I popped into the thrift shop this morning and got an off-white blouse for my concert - I never get around to sewing one because I don't really want one that much, I just need it once a year for the fall concert - and picked one out without trying it on. Got home and tried it, and it fits, which is cool! It has shoulder pads. I think it looks cute even with, or possibly because of, them. But I can't tell if we've collectively moved past the intense disgust for '80s fashion, or if I have just borked my sense of what would look normal to other people by overexposure to vintage/historical fashion. But anyway, I'll be wearing my '40s skirt so it should look right together.

Have to figure out what to do for the candlelight service in a few weeks - we're supposed to wear a red or green top for that, and I typically wear a red or green sweater over a camisole or something, but the sweater is always way too hot under the lights. Part of me thinks I should just go back to the thrift store next week and look for a red or green blouse, but part of me thinks I should buy some charmeuse and make a view A or maybe C, this is a pretty simple pattern. Okay, well, I just bought some from FFC because I am a gold-plated fool.

Edit: Oh yes! I remembered last night that I do have a teal shirt I made several years ago out of rayon? jersey. So I wrote to FFC to cancel the order and hopefully they will.
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
Can't believe I forgot to mention: Patterns of Fashion 5 came in yesterday! It is so freaking amazing. The original PoF crossed with the V&A 17thc books.
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
I can't believe I forgot one of the coolest things I brought home with me! I bought this tote bag from the Fashion Archives, printed with a gridded/scaled pattern of a gown (I think 1850s, altered for 1860s) from their collection. It's wonderful and I can't wait to take it to my next patterning appointment.

---

A couple of links I've had up forever:

The diary of Hannah Cassamajor East (1746-1810), which runs from 1776 to 1785. (Scroll past the notes about fees simple.) Sometimes talks about clothes and stuff!

The Getty has a lot of digitized books on dress - some of it's historical primary sources, some of it's old books on historical fashion, some of it's exhibition catalogues.
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
... about whether I like it or I don't. (The second season is up on Netflix.) I honestly think we do need more adaptations of classic lit, particularly rosy kidlit, that explores characters that are marginalized in the original - like Jerry - and adds characters of other marginalized identities, whether the marginalization is added to an existing character, like Miss Barry being a lesbian, or new characters are added, like Bash and Cole. To that end, new storylines of course have to be added and old ones changed. And in general, I love getting to look at canonical characters from new perspectives, like the more internal looks at Matthew and Marilla.

But I just don't understand why this show is pretty good at dealing with these other marginalizations (the episode with Miss Barry's party was FABULOUS, and just about everything with Bash is great) and so incredibly clunky when it comes to feminism. Like ... there is a black community in Charlottetown, and they are treated poorly by many white locals, but we get to see that they are real people with their own lives despite that. Cole is a sensitive gay artist who's terribly uncomfortable with almost every aspect of his life, and gets bullied for being different, but the show never has to explicitly say what's up. But then when it's time to deal with sexism, it's like "Miss Stacy wears pants and no corset and rides a motorbike!" "Anne complains that trousseaux contain linens instead of only books!" "Various adult women make awkward statements about gender relations that would not have to be explained to anyone born before 1930!" "Mrs. Andrews wants Priscilla to go to college and Prissy runs away from her wedding!" It's like the other issues are in first gear along with the plot, but every time feminism comes into it we suddenly shift into third.

(And also, I'm cool with changes from canon, but Gilbert and Anne's relationship just comes off very oddly.)

When I think about it, they probably would have done better to adapt Emily of New Moon. For one thing, it just is a bit grittier than AoGG - Ilse's backstory? Perry being from Stovepipe Town? Mrs. Kent and her issues? DEAN?? - and then you have Ilse to make any political statements you want. But it's not well-known so you don't get that "this is Canadian Heritage" flavor.
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
My first thought was that I would get motivated by reading Unfuck Your Habitat, but I very quickly realized that that's for a different audience than me. The things unmotivating me from keeping stuff together have been:

- the soullessness of my apartment: with square rooms, beige walls, and a hard, brown/grey carpet, literally nothing looks "good" in it

- its size: there are very few arrangements of furniture that will fit in the space without being wasteful or awkward

- nobody sees it: a couple of times a year one or the other of my parents will visit me, I have no friends

- I don't plan to stay: I'm always applying to jobs in other towns and regularly consider moving out of here just for another place in Canton, should one appear

There's nothing to be done about the first three, but I can at least get over the fourth and tell myself that that doesn't mean I shouldn't put the time in. So Sunday and Monday evenings I cleared out an awful lot of junk from the floor and the shelves in the tv table, putting it in the recycling or in a box for storage; took everything off the bookshelves and the designated book piles, dusted, sorted, and reshelved or boxed for storage or donation; moved my antique garment collection to the shelf in my closet from the floor in front of the table; and vacuumed every time I made new floor space available.

It's the kind of cleaning that makes bigger messes in some areas (as I move sewing stuff from the living room to the sewing area, for instance) but overall it decreases the clutter, so it balances out. So far I've ordered a utensil organizer for the "everything" kitchen cupboard (there's only one drawer in this kitchen. ONE DRAWER), a hanging file organizer for everything I would file but has been living in my highly secure filing system, "between books on the shelf or in a pile", a box for batteries, and a big metal shelving unit for pantry stuff. Don't anticipate needing much more, except maybe some decorative boxes for sewing supply storage and something to put on the coffee table to help with the inevitable current-sewing-project clutter.

So silly

Jun. 9th, 2018 10:11 pm
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
I got out my last full Regency corset mockup, picked off the ridiculous number of stray threads clinging to it, tried it on with a shift underneath, and honestly, it fit better than I remembered! I had to unpick the tucks I'd put in the gussets "for more uplift" (part of why it was too tight) and unsewed the front of the straps (which pulled it up way too high, the other part of why it was too tight), but it's pretty decent now. I've put some quick eyelets in for the front of the straps and I'll try it on properly again tomorrow, but I think my memory of how bad it fit was somewhat skewed and I might be at "let's bind this sucker and someday when I feel I've got the time I can use this as a pattern for a nice hand-sewn, accurate corset". The eyelets may be somewhat too far under my arms now, but of course the beauty of tie-on straps is that you can very easily move the attachment points.
chocolatepot: The bodice of a woman, from a painting by Caravaggio (Caravaggio)
I decided to stay home, at least for the morning, due to cramps ... and now every time I stop thinking about it I feel better, but then as soon as I guiltily consider going in to work, there's a new stab of pain in my back and my stomach is tender again. I don't like this.

Didn't sew anything yesterday because I recorded the next ep of my podcast in the morning, realized it was too short, and so worked on that in the evening. Still working on that now! I just need a few more examples of folk dress ... I have bodice pieces all pinned up, flopped on the back of the couch, but I don't feel the urge to actually sew them together yet as it's not like I'd finish soon enough to wear it in the city, anyway.
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
Petticoat finished! This was a pretty quick project, I did the cutting one evening, the vertical seams the next, and spent pretty much all of today gathering and finishing. Could probably be done faster if you were competent with a ruffling foot (or if your ruffling foot is less than a century old and doesn't completely stop working or make the needle fall out when you adjust the stitch length) or even used the ol' "super low tension on a modern machine" method of doing gathering stitches instead of sewing those by hand.

I'm making a light starch solution, but even without that it does pretty well at holding a skirt out. It does, of course, lack that very full hem + very full ruffle that your average nylon petti has to make a kind of solid bottom to the underside of your skirt (you know what I mean), but it's sufficient for what you need. Maybe with a second or with a lace edging, you'd get a prettier look.
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
At last, the Antique & Artisan Show is over! Can't wait to get back to work and have people start hassling me about stuff they want me to do now that I no longer have "I'm really busy because of the show" as an excuse not to do their pet projects. There I bought a partial set of Hall China refrigerator containers (will be trying to collect the butter dish and bigger pitcher), a box of sheet music containing some real hits, a watch that I think was a bad buy but was cheap, and a 1944 McCall's.

I thought I was ready to send out a pattern to one of my smallest testers, but I misjudged how long it would take to do instructions - although with [personal profile] danabren's advice from the last one and the relative simplicity of this dress, these came together quickly! But writing out instructions makes it clear where I need to change things on the pattern itself, of course, and add pieces I just didn't think about before (plackets and so on).

Someone I contacted on Tumblr about drawing my logo got back to me! Having that will be nice.

Watching Cranford this evening. Real talk: I like it because I identify with the spinsters who are variously still looking to get married, disdainful of men, and/or regretful about never having had a family.

I've been playing Hogwarts Mystery, too. Pros: More HP stuff to engage with; intriguing pre-series setting (between chapters one and two of PS/SS); promise of seeing young Charlie and Tonks eventually; storyline with very fanfic plot and some sympathetic NPCs. Cons: Only one person can have each name, and since the OFC I came up with when I was 13 has a relatively common one I was not able to be her, MEGA DISAPPOINTMENT; for something with a railroad plot, it has terribly ugly animation/characters; said railroad plot doesn't allow for real exploration of the setting; the energy thing everyone complains about definitely detracts from gameplay, although the waiting period is better than on a couple of Playrix games I play; the antagonist is unconvincing and irritating. I'm more interested in the upcoming Niantic AR game, although after PokeGo it's pretty certain that the servers will be impossible to get on for the first week.
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
I probs should have checked in with the Edwardian/WWI group on Facebook when I was choosing what to pattern - I tried several different platforms but I keep forgetting that the costuming community is all FB all the time now* - but it looks like everyone (bar one person) prefers my great-grandmother's 1919 or 1920 graduation dress for a pattern, so I'm working on that!

* It's so depressing. I'm used to comparing myself to more successful, attractive, and interesting bloggers and feeling bad about my lack of readership, but even the BNF bloggers are not getting the attention they used to.

I did all the digitizing of the base pattern yesterday, and have been working on creating sizes today. Then a few more days working on directions, intro text, and cover page design, and I should be ready to go. So far I've got Robin here, and people on FB are signing up quickly - so let me know if anyone else here is into it!
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
The blouse is completed apart from the hem, so I'm feeling pretty good right now, although tired. It fits (not too tight, except maybe a little in the sleeve band), and it's not super flattering, but if you google for Simplicity 1692 and look at the versions with the short, puffed sleeves, you can see that it's not flattering on anyone, though it's very forties. If I pin curl my hair, I think people will get a kick out of the whole outfit at the concert, which is basically why I do this whole thing.
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
I made a simnel cake! Without thinking about how I would dispose of an entire fruitcake ... I'll be bringing much of it in to work and cutting it up to try to get other people to eat it. Spoiler alert: they won't, because nobody ever eats what I bring in. Maybe I'll just cut it up and stick it in my lunch for the next month instead.

On Saturday I got basically nothing done - went out to see the Met's Così Fan Tutte at the Roxy in Potsdam (it was set on Coney Island in the 1950s, with all these people who actually work at Coney Island now doing contortions, snake-handling, etc.) and then went to JoAnn, where there was a surprise pattern sale! I just needed zippers but picked up a good handful of Simplicity patterns, including - very importantly - 1940s pants without pleats.

Sunday and Monday I just sewed; Sunday I never even left my apartment or put more clothes on than pajama pants and a sweatshirt. Finished the gold and black dress and started on my 1940s blouse, which now just needs sleeves and the hem and zipper ... it felt like I'd done more before I said that. But I'm feeling extremely optimistic about finishing it and making a plain black skirt before the concert on the 14th/15th. Hair is the only real concern.

:O

Mar. 19th, 2018 09:03 pm
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
Remember how in love I was with this fabric? Well, it gave me a bit of a shock - I'm so used to using solids or patterns so small or big that you don't bother to match, but this is one that you actually have to match. And it was in the sale bin at Joann, so it's listed as out of stock on the website. But I'm happy to say that I just barely made it work! I unfortunately had to recut the front of the bodice (I initially cut it out before realizing I needed to center the pattern), but by cutting the front of the skirt on a fold and piecing two corners of the skirt (one in back and one in front), it all works. By sheer chance, the bodice and skirt fronts are both on the same axis - as you can see, you can have the flowers facing diagonally in or diagonally out. That was very, very lucky.
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
In order of watching.

Black Panther )

Jessica Jones )

A Wrinkle in Time )

I need to reread the L'Engles I have read and read the ones I haven't. Mayhap I will stop at the library tomorrow and see what they have.

Haslam

Mar. 9th, 2018 07:42 pm
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
I bought three Haslam books last night - My Vintage Wish gives you a little discount if you buy three at a time. One a lingerie book from the war years (it says "lingerie" but contains blouses, skirts, pinafore dresses, housedresses, dressing gowns, a "service overall", etc.), a similar lingerie book probably from about 1948-1950, and a dresses/coats/suits book that's probably ca. 1953. (IMO the intermediary period is so interesting. The A-line skirt, the padded shoulder, but no puff to the sleeve and the hair generally sleek and the skirt significantly longer - yeah, the '47 Bar suit has a pretty fluffy skirt, but in the famous photo of what I assume is a sample/runway version it hangs in an A-line, and the one made for the woman who donated it to the Met to actually wear feels like a much more '40s style, with built-up shoulders and a narrower hip flare.)

I want more. I want all the Haslam books. This is bad! I can't make all of these dresses! But it's so cool.

Sewing talk

Mar. 7th, 2018 06:26 pm
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
Just finished everything on my silky drawers save the button and buttonhole! These things are enormous when I lay them out flat but I've got to accept that turning my three dimensions into two makes for something that is not dainty. It'll be interesting to see how they wear - I think I noted before how my fuller slip has formed weird ripples in the weave where it sometimes catches between my legs, and both slips have certain places where they look a bit like they're fraying near seams, but they've been like this forever and it seems like the silk warp/weft are generally strong enough to hold up even when they're being pushed around.

But I want to get some crêpe-de-chine and try making some underthings out of that to see if it just works better - it's certainly the traditional weave (according to various stories in my Dorothy Parker collection, probably also some of the Needlework magazines I have in a box and have never finished going through). But Dharma only sells it in white (boring, impractical) and all the options at FFC are dull colors, probably for fall/winter, and various pinks. I want light blue! I would make do with a pink but I really want light blue.

Next try at drawers will also be set on an elastic waistband, maybe.

I'm also trying to figure out what to make for the spring concert. I think we're really going with the pastel on top, black on the bottom rule that's always printed on the schedule - in previous springs we've worn sixties clothes to go with the theme of the music, but I can't imagine he's going to ask people to dress 1930s-1940s because nobody but me would be prepared for that. Still, I want to do it! Technically some of the music goes later, but it's mostly '40s, so I want to do that instead of my usual '50s.

On the one hand, I'm thinking of making a skirt based on this dress and then one of these blouses - not sure which one, but probably D as those high necklines just look like they'd be so unflattering on me. I have these patterns and I've even made that dress (so I know that the skirt yoke is a pain in the ass).

On the other, I'm looking at actually paying for an e-copy of a Haslam book - this 1940s one has a bunch of separates. Edit: And I just found a handful of antique '40s patterns I was given, one of which has a perfect plain A-line skirt. I'd need to make the waist ... a bit bigger, though.

Still not quite brave enough to try 1930s! My hair is more 1940s anyway.
chocolatepot: Ed and Stede (Default)
I may start sewing again!! The pajama pants I wear every day after work and typically most of the weekend are worn out between the thighs; I accidentally put my thumbnail through them in one place last night. Cotton flannel is one thing I feel like it's safe to rely on JoAnn for, so in a bit I'll be driving over to Ogdensburg. Their website showed a cute sea-turtle print that I might get some of, if they have it in the store, to make another pair of pants for Melissa.

Watching this Chinese fantasy movie on Hulu called Once Upon a Time - I'm not sure if the worldbuilding is really wild, or if there's just a set of assumptions about mythology going on that I'm not familiar with. Probably a little of both.

Having a sore throat is bad enough, but having a sore throat and period cramps is simply too punishing.

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